Portmeirion shouldn't really work. It's a Welsh headland dressed up as an Italian riviera town, built in fits and starts over fifty years by one architect who never stopped tinkering with it. And yet it's produced one of the most successful stage comedies in British theatre history, given a cult television show its entire setting, and quietly built a pottery empire that's still selling today. The postcard version of Portmeirion's story usually stops at Clough Williams-Ellis a